Yapese Dancers

The Internet was extremely slow on Yap, so while we were on the island, we were unable to upload this video, showing this beautiful Yapese dance.  If you go a few posts back (post dated 3/15/11), you can read about how we were able to attend this ceremony.  Also, I thought it was interesting that the men put a yellow-colored oil all over their bodies, giving them a yellow glow.  Furthermore, the light greenish/yellow "things" hanging from their arms and skirts, are fresh leaves.  Other than their red and blue "thus" (pronounced thooz), everything on their bodies is made with local flora.  

R & R Under the Sea

Yap:  March 16 & 17, 2011

Our working trip to Yap actually took place during Spring Break.  Since we were supposed to be off-work, we decided to take a couple of days to see just why this dot on the map is also one of the world's most sought after dive locations, a place that makes lots of people's "bucket list."  While it is true that 90% of dive tourists have no idea about the society beyond the walls of the dive resort, it is also true that 90% of the people living outside the dive resort have no idea exactly what lies underneath the water surrounding their island.  There is no way to describe it, so pictures will have to do.  By way of introduction, Yap is known for its Manta Rays, huge, graceful creatures flowing through the water without the slightest concern about the divers gawking at them as they glide by.  Spanning fourteen feet across in some cases, they stop in certain spots to let the little wrasse (fish) clean the accumulated plankton off their massive bodies.  Sometimes appearing in a line-up called a "Manta Train," they form an elaborate mating ritual as one-by-one, they float above diver's heads as if traveling through liquid space.  It is truly an amazing sight, but so was everything we share with you in the following slide show.

Yap: Making Connections

March 14, 2011
Tuesday was the day to put on my dive program coordinator's hat, and meet Yap's legendary Bill Acker. If it weren't for Bill, Yap would only be a tiny dot on an enlarged map of Micronesia (“tiny islands”). Bill came here in the seventies as a Peace Corps worker and couldn't get Yap about of his head. He returned here, and basically discovered the scuba industry, making Yap world famous for its manta rays (you also may have heard of Yap as the island of stone money, but that's another story). Bill was very open to our school's very unique dive-training program which is intended to certify dive masters who can get solid employment back in their home islands. We had a great chat. He introduced me to his dive shop manager, Jan, who along with everyone I've met among his 85 employees, is very interested in what we're doing. Bill would love to employ more Micronesian dive professionals.


Bill's Dive Resort



One doesn't always do things by appointment here, so after meeting Bill, we decided to try to find a woman who we heard was trying to find Karyn (few people seem to have phones). It seems that she dropped by the PIU teaching facility saying she heard there is a woman here who is a counselor and specializes in working with victims of sexual abuse. Her interest revolves around her work running a woman's center for victims of domestic violence and sexual abuse. In true island-style, no one seemed quite certain where the facility was located, until we were finally directed to a building that was surely the one. Surely it wasn't, but close! This was the building the women's center had originally planned on using but is now being used for a daycare. While Karyn was inside trying to get the location straightened out, she noticed an announcement instructing parents to make sure they get their kids immunized for mumps due to the recent outbreak (we forgot that mumps even existed!). A moment later, Karyn detected a little five-year-old Yapese boy watching her. He crept closer and closer and then gently put his little brown hand on her white leg as if overtaken by curiosity at how white skin must feel. Taking comfort from her mumps inoculation, Karyn reached out her hand so he could touch her; instead, he took her hand like they were going to take a walk together – too cute, just like the rest of the little ones staring at these strange white apparitions with wide brown eyes. By the way, later we finally found the woman's center . . . and it was closed. Not to worry, we've got a couple more days.


After a quick visit to the ESA restaurant to grab our once-a-day meal, I made my way back to the apartment, and Karyn went straight to the PIU teaching facility to use the internet.

For the next couple of hours I met with Liebenzell missionary and PIU board member Harold Gorges (PIU was originally founded by Liebenzell Germany). Harold is a wealth of information about Micronesia, where he has served since 1978, living in Yap the first 10 years. Like everywhere, I suppose, we are visiting a very unique culture, but I was stricken by how different it is from the other Micronesian islands. Westerners struggle to tell the difference between one Micronesian and another, thus falling prey to the assumption that they all share the same culture. Little could be further from the truth. Even here in tiny Yap, one group fails to understand another, exacerbated by the fact that they speak languages as different as English and Chinese. It is a culture that is private, patriarchal, and clan-driven, yet scarred by sky-rocketing substance abuse and suicide rates. To boot, this shame-based culture won't talk about its problems. Naturally, some of this characterizes the church, and therein dwells the problem. So, helping the church build the infrastructure I referred to in yesterday's entry is much easier said than done. Fortunately, as believers, we know there is hope!That evening we sat around a generous dinner table with Pastor Asael, his family (Chuukese), some leaders of the


Pastor Asael and Techimy


Yapese church, a German/Canadian couple volunteering in our teaching facility, Harold, and another visiting missionary from Liebenzell Germany. It was time to say goodbye to the latter, Armin, who had been with us at PIU, in Palau, and now in Yap. What a joy to later hear Pren, chairman of the Yapese Evangelical Church board, as he managed to balance sharing his testimony (in excellent English) with an ever-present wad of bright red betelnut in his mouth. He found Jesus (the other way around?) when he was told he might not make it through a serious surgery, so he had better make peace with his God. Pren had no God, but after reading a Gideon Bible and constantly bumping into Christians, he sneaked into church and discovered that God is named “Jesus.”



Pren



What wonderful fellowship we had that night across the cultural lines; another taste of heaven, where all God's people speaking languages from every people group, will join together in proclaiming Jesus as Lord.

One thing every missionary has the joy of experiencing: The presence of God's Spirit transcending every cultural divide!

Reality Check: The Need is Great

March 14, 2011

Eric reports: It was time to get to work right away on Monday, so I shifted from my role as PIU seminary dean to PIU dive program coordinator. With Charity as our driver, we zipped over to the famous Manta Ray Resort, home of Yap Diver’s. Owner Bill Acker had showed significant interest in our program and a desire to employ more trained Micronesian divers. A friendly welcome resulted in a meeting scheduled for the following day. Check tomorrow’s blog for the results.


Common Sight



When we got home, we had a surprise visit. Let me back up. On Sunday night, after I preached at the English service, we had the privilege of meeting another bright PIU grad, Jonathan Tamag. Jonathan runs the hospital’s community counseling program, and is a young leader in the Yapese church. Although Karyn had been busily preparing to present a seminar to Jonathan’s counseling staff, just before we left Guam, we were told they wouldn’t be able to pull it off (Flexibility is the key word when working in Micronesia). Now it became obvious Jonathan still really wanted something presented, but wasn’t sure when or how, and that’s how it was left. On Monday afternoon, we received a rap on our apartment door and a greeting from Jonathan announcing he had brought his counselor’s with him! It was a classic moment to watch Karyn go into the fight or flight mode, thinking she was on the spot for a spontaneous counseling seminar. I could almost hear her thoughts: “First thing, put on longer, more culturally appropriate, pants (as she flew into the bedroom to change out of her shorts). Second, grab all your material, your computer, and look relaxed.” Actually, Jonathan was not asking for a spur-of-the-moment formal counseling seminar as much as he was looking for some casual consulting in the hopes of setting up something more formal for later in the week. However, what began as nothing more than a little Q & A, resulted in two hours of intensive consulting on issues far deeper than any two-hour conversation could address. Here was Karyn with two of Jonathan’s woefully under-trained, but deeply caring workers, grasping for a helping hand while daily facing issues of epidemic suicide in the midst of a culture that will not talk about it, the very thing essential to resolving it. Serious substance abuse issues coupled with domestic violence and child abuse puts these poorly equipped “front-line” workers at high risk of burn-out. While begging Karyn to return in May and teach a multiple-week intensive counseling seminar, for now, it was settled that she will spend Friday afternoon consulting at the hospital in an attempt to offer a little help and a dose of hope.

Karyn meeting with hospital counselors

After that eye-opening session, Charity decided to drive us up along the other side of Yap proper, which was nothing less than a succession of National Geographic scenes.



Men's House



Picture lush tropical foliage abutting crystalline seas dotted with an occasional large open-air palm-thatched “men’s house,” one for every village. Pulling up to a small tin-walled building with a single gas pump, we were thrilled to be greeted by Lydia, another PIU grad taking the afternoon shift at her family’s gas station ($4.70 per gallon, and the cheapest on Yap). Her ministry is actually teaching in the morning kindergarten program run by the Colonia Church, but like all Micronesians, she is part of the family unit, and does her part pumping gas while killing the time in-between customers sitting out back under the shade of their palm-covered shack.





Rushing back to the lower building for a board meeting of the Yap Evangelical Church, I slipped in just in the nick of time. Asael Ruda, head pastor, and Pren, board chair (and member of the PIU board), had asked me to come to share any insights and news from PIU. Now it was my turn to consult. Though the gospel arrived on Yap in 1959, the church still needs basic infrastructure, and the leaders feel the pressing concern to establish proper ordination procedures. Since long-time missionary to Micronesia, Harold Gorges was also in the meeting, both of us chimed in, and it was immediately decided that a seminar was needed to work on these issues. Just like the counselors in the hospital longing for some fundamental guidelines, so too is the church in Yap. “When can you come back?” It is our hope, that if the funds are available, we will both come back in May, Karyn to work with hospital counselors, and I with church leadership. Then, we’ll be off to the states to reconnect with supporting churches.


Yap Evangelical Church Sanctuary


 Yes, the need here is tremendous, a need I feel our unique school can help meet. Fortunately the need was not so overwhelming as to keep me from enjoying the fresh sashimi (raw yellow-fin tuna) just brought in and sliced up an hour before our meeting, along with the homemade donuts. Yes, I brought some sashimi up to Karyn who was busy preparing the first installation of our Yap blog at the PIU teaching facility—the only place we can get Internet access (albeit, very slow access)! Speaking of which, there’s more to come, so stay tuned!



Yap PIU Teaching Facility



The First 24 Hours on Yap

March 13, 2011(middle of the night): Landing on Yap

As the plane slammed down on the tarmac (to the point that I was surprised the wheels could bear it) and immediately braked to the point that passengers were whip lashed forward, we knew we had arrived on Yap. Apparently, the runway is so short that the 737 is forced to take this drastic approach. As we exited the plane to walk across the runway, we noticed the lights flashing on an emergency vehicle. I joked that they anticipated a crash when they saw our abrupt landing, but sadly, I was later informed it was because a child in the “outer islands” had died and was being returned to Yap. Apparently, the very small child was flown to the Philippines in an attempt to secure medical treatment, but it was too late. As we went through customs, there was a Yapese young woman in traditional dress (bright colored grass skirt, no shirt) greeting each passenger with a lei. We were in the very back of the line which was moving very slowly. There was one line that was for locals that was soon empty. The customs official motioned for the next person to move to the “local” line. A man and I simultaneously moved to the free line. He kindly motioned me to continue and he remained in the “visitor” line. As Eric and I quickly made it through the “local” line, I realized that the leis were only given to those in the visitor line. Drat! I should have allowed the man to go first! “The first shall be last and the last shall be first.” Sigh . . . lesson learned! As we then waited for our luggage to be taken off the plane, I enviously eyed all the leis the guests were wearing, and tried not to stare at the men wearing “thus” (pronounced “thooz”, and
 

Thuw (thoo) and man's purse

 similar to what American Indians wore). Finally, luggage in tow, we meandered to the front of the air terminal, where we were greeted with beautiful flowered head leis by Pastor Ruda, his son, his daughter, and son-in-law (all graduates of PIU).

They kindly drove us the short distance to the apartment we were to stay in. I was surprised that once we arrived, even though it was about 1:00 a.m., Pastor Ruda didn’t quickly leave, though he had three church services to attend the following day. Instead, he sat down on the couch in our apartment and talked for about 30 minutes. It’s times like these that I am reminded of the stark differences between Micronesian and American culture. I’m sure Pastor Ruda was tired and concerned about all the tasks he needed to face in a matter of hours, but he was more concerned with “being” with us, people he didn’t even know. It took a while to fall asleep because of the heat, but as I eventually drifted off to sleep, I remembered I had forgotten my toothbrush……………..


March 13, 2011 (afternoon): In Search of a Toothbrush 
Once awake, I was on a mission to purchase a toothbrush and Eric recalled he had forgotten his contact lens solution. We began the short trek to a local market while I mumbled about the merits of topless dress given the extreme heat and humidity on Yap (Yes, unbelievable, it is hotter than Guam – we’re about 9 degrees north of the equator!). Searching the shelves I located a toothbrush, but certainly no contact lens solution. The proprietor had no idea what contact lenses were, let alone the solution. Eventually, we made our way to the ESA Hotel, which is owned by the parents of one of our students. We enjoyed delicious yellow fin tuna sandwiches, cabbage salad and papaya. We then dripped our way back to our accommodations and I checked to see if there was any way I could fit into the freezer. Just as we cooled off, it was time to head out and experience traditional Yap.

Yap has a cast system, and there are many social rules. One cannot simply enter a village on the island without permission from the chief or without an approved escort. Therefore, we were ecstatic when we were informed that a village on the south tip was going to present their local dance and Pastor Ruda offered to escort us. Upon our arrival, Pastor Ruda immediately tore a small limb off a tree to hold in his hand. It was then that I noticed that everyone who was not from the village was either holding a “men’s purse” (see picture) or a small leafy limb. Apparently, it is


Men's Purse

 rude to come into someone’s village without leaves or a special purse in your hand; in fact, visitors have to hold the little sapling with the broken-off part pointed forward. The dance was held in front of the men’s house (a place where village MEN gather), and was performed by the men of the

village. Interestingly, at one point, a large group of women bearing gifts circled the men multiple times, leaving gifts beside each performer. The most common gifts were beer and hard liquor. There were also gifts of candy, crackers, and homemade rolls. Some of the women even approached me and gave me a “lei” of homemade rolls and donuts. 


Notice the roll/donut lei

  Later Eric and I were both given leis for our heads and when I asked why us, it was suggested that because Pastor Ruda is considered high cast, the villagers were honoring his guests.

 March 13, 2011 (Evening): Preaching to Dogs

Sadly, Pastor Ruda is the only Protestant, full-time pastor on Yap. He pastors three churches and helps out in two others. Pastor Ruda, who is actually Chuukese, came to Yap as a missionary in 1989. He is from the outer islands of Chuuk, and his language is similar to the outer islanders of Yap—about 60% overlap. However, his language is COMPLETELY dissimilar to the main language of Yap, and he has no ability to speak the main language. Therefore, he preaches for four very distinct congregations: 1) Two Yapese congregations where someone translates his sermon into the main Yapese language. 2) An outer island Yapese congregation wherein he speaks Chuukese and the parishioners understand 60% of what he says. 3) A Palauan congregation where someone translates his sermon into Palauan. 4) A Yapese, English-speaking congregation. It is this fourth group to which Eric was asked to speak. As we gathered, mats were placed on the concrete floor for people to sit (as is traditional). To my relief, they also brought in some chairs. No sooner had the singing begun, than a stray dog entered and made itself comfortable on one of the mats. Apparently, the mongrel is a regular at this evening service! It was a joy to watch as PIU students led the singing, helped with the children, organized the service, etc. Then, as Charity drove us home, we passed a lit up building and we were surprised to see Mac, another PIU graduate, leading a Bible study. Charity informed us that Mac is the first missionary sent from Palau to work in Yap. As we lay down to sleep that night, Eric and I reflected on the joy that we both felt at being involved at PIU because we were witnessing, first-hand, the impact PIU is having throughout Micronesia.

Happy Thanksgiving in February!

"Fascinating photos!" I mused as I poured over the pictures Charity had posted on Facebook. Charity, a graduate of Pacific Islands University, currently organizes the school's distance education site on the island of Yap. Actually, Charity's parents, who are Chuukese, left their island of Chuuk to go to Yap (an entirely different language and culture) as some of the first Micronesian missionaries. Every time Charity posts photographs, I am mesmerized. She does a fabulous job of visually capturing the essence of an event. This time was no exception; I was captivated by all the images of piles of fresh fruits

and vegetables. And, of course, my inquisitive brain was filled with questions. I began to post on her photos a succession of questions. She patiently answered each one. Ultimately, it hit me, "This would make a great blog! Our readers would love to hear about this!" When I explained my intention to Charity, she kindly obliged me by answering the following questions:



Karyn: What are you celebrating in these pictures?


Charity: We are celebrating Thanksgiving!


Karyn: In February?! How long has this been a tradition and how did it start?


Charity: This idea of Thanksgiving was being introduced by missionaries long time ago. Therefore the Churches then say that since February is when most of the crops are ready for harvest, they decided that Thanksgiving will fall on the month of February. Church leaders come up with the idea that every first Sunday of February is Thanksgiving Day.


Karyn: Does anyone celebrate Thanksgiving in November? And do all Yapese celebrate Thanksgiving in February?


Charity:  Thanksgiving in November is really only celebrated by foreigners. The February Thanksgiving is really only celebrated by those who attend one of the five evangelical churches on Yap.


Karyn: Can you describe how the church celebrates Thanksgiving?


Charity:  Our Thanksgiving celebration is more like Christmas and Easter to the Churches here. All five evangelical churches in Yap come together and share or celebrate Thanksgiving together bringing their crops or anything as

token of their thanksgiving to God. Some Americans, or people who are not from Yap, bring rice, bread or boxes of Ramen from the stores as their token of thanksgiving too. As Chuukese, living in Yap, we sew Chuukese skirts and also put them in front of the Church. The night before Thanksgiving Sunday, everyone comes and puts their crops or items in front, preparing it for the next day.



Taro back left, yams, tapioca, lemons, pumpkins, the big green oval things (front left) are
a white melon that are more like a squash, they have to be cooked in order to be eaten.

Thanksgiving Sunday is packed with people from all the five evangelical churches here in Yap.It's this day that

kids have their own Sunday school while members are enjoying special numbers, and a blessed message from a guest speaker. The service is concluded with a nice Kids program that is well planned by the pastor and all the five Sunday school teachers from all five Churches. They are to learn their program ahead of time, and in the end of the program, the kids program is being shown to the audience.

After the service, the celebration still continues with socializing fellowship as food is prepared for lunch.

When lunch is over, then the youth do the cleaning up and sweeping and then the old ladies again come in and divide the crops. People often choose first what they want from the crop display and then afterwards, the ladies would divide the crops to the old people, some goes to the people in jail, hospital, those who are sick and big amount of the crops goes also to the five churches.

Karyn: Why is that boat sitting on the table?

Charity: This was a gift for the guest speaker. This symbolizes that we are all in the same boat rowing toward our goal and that you see in the picture, what you call it?, Sail of the boat?? This represents the Holy Spirit in direct of each and every one of our lives. The ones who gave this gift must know the real meaning of the boat in relation to our spiritual walk together in Christ.

Eric and I have been to Chuuk and Palau, and we have found that being on the islands from which our students hail, adds a depth to our understanding of our students that is incomparable.  We are hoping to get to Yap over spring break and experience this beautiful culture first-hand!  I am very grateful to Charity who so openly shared her pictures and experience with us!

A Most Dangerous Profession

When Eric was writing his doctoral dissertation, he was intent on writing something immediately applicable to the church. While he regularly reads academic tomes, and finds such research essential to the church's mission in the world, he wanted to write something that didn't have to wait to "trickle down" through the academy to church leaders (a thing that doesn't always happen). So, when it was all said and done, he began to earnestly seek out publishers; although, he admits, his hopes were not very high. To his shock, and absolute delight, Wipf & Stock, out of Portland, accepted his proposal early in 2010. Then the task became editing, and editing, and editing some more. The good news is that A Most Dangerous Profession:  Why the Pastoral Ministry is Hazardous to Your Soul, is now in print!   

    What's it about? From the back cover: "Every Christian is assailed by the gales of temptation, but those in professional ministry face fiercer storms than the rest.  As CH Spurgeon warned, contrary to what is often assumed, 'our dangers are more numerous and more insidious than those of ordinary Christians.' This perspective was shared by the unified voice of the historic church, leading some Patristic church fathers to initially flee the call to ministry . . . .  A Most Dangerous Profession surfaces these gems so often overlooked in historic Christian literature, and ends with their practical advice on how to overcome." 

    It really was a labor of love, and Eric hopes it will have even a little impact on the church and those who serve it. Even if you're not a pastor, or don't consider yourself a church leader, you can help increase the exposure of the book. For one thing, you can buy copies and give it to your pastors and church leaders. FYI, we've been told that ordering it through a local bookstore usually means they'll buy a few copies and put the others on their shelves (it's worth a try). You could also read it and then write a customer review on Amazon. The more positive reviews, the better. In the meantime, it's available from Wipf and Stock Publishers (wipfandstock.com), and Amazon. Thanks for your support and encouragement!